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Browsing Category Nicaragua

48 heures de traversée… Du Nicaragua au Guatemala

October 27, 2013 · by Jacques.L

A l’heure ou je vous écris, nous sommes dans le TGV qui nous ramène depuis Perpignan dans le Sud de la France jusqu’à Paris où nous prendrons notre vol pour l’Australie le lendemain… Et oui, les onze mois sont passés à la vitesse grand V. En parlant de vitesse, on ne peut pas dire que notre TGV ce soir soit très performant.. Presque deux heures de retards sur cinq heures de trajets… On a été mieux habitués dans les quatres coins de la planète où pourtant l’état des infrastructures a plutôt très à envie ce que nous avons en France… Finalement, ce genre de voyage dans ces pays reculés et pauvres vous ouvrent bien l’esprit… Nous avons de la chance d’être bien nés dans un pays comme la France. Tellement de chance qu’on ne le réalise pas et qu’on n’arrête pas de se plaindre pour un rien…
Bon ok, nous ne sommes pas là pour tergiverser sur ces sujets. Revenons dans le coeur du sujet…

Notre scène d’aujourd’hui se situe donc toujours au Nicaragua en Amérique Centrale. Et cette scène vous fera parcourir 3 pays… Nous ne sommes pas chausses des bottes des sept lieues mais juste de car ou mini bus locaux qui des fois décident de fonctionner, d’autres fois non…

Nous sommes Vendredi 12 Juillet 2013, et après un peu plus de deux semaines passées dans le Nicaragua, nous décidons de nous engager sur l’avant dernière étape de notre périple en Amerique Centrale, le Guatemala.

D’un commun accord, nous « zappons » le Honduras et ses ruines de Copan ainsi que le Salvador. Direction donc Guatemala City au Guatemala.

Là, encore des décisions à prendre. Soit nous achetons un billet direct depuis Managua qui nous amène en presqu’un jour sur Guatemala City soit nous prenons notre temps et testons le transport local…

Vous l’aurez bien deviné, la deuxième solution s’impose à nous..

Notre trajet est simple…

Nous longeons la côte Pacifique pour remonter au Nord-Ouest du Nicaragua, traverser ensuite la petite partie du Honduras (qui leur permet donc d’acceder de ce côté-ci à l’Ocean Pacifique ) puis le Salvador avant d’entrer au Guatemala.

Sur le papier, ça a l’air plutôt simple.

Et en réalité… Nous partons un peu tard de Granada, arrivons sur Managua une heure plus tard et repartons sitôt dit sitôt fait.. pour Léon (la soeur rivale)… Pause déjeuner d’une demi-heure dans le terminal de bus débordant d’activités…  Nous attrapons là (ou plutôt on se fait attraper par les racoleurs) un collectivo qui nous amène jusqu’à la ville de Chinadega.. 50 min plus tard, nous arrivons sur Chinadega et là un bus pour la frontière du Honduras nous attend. Nous ne savons pas si c’est de la chance ou du bon timing…  Le bus est plein à craquer et il se met à pleuvoir des trombes jusqu’à la frontière. Nous devons même négocier avec le chauffeur pour nous  emmener jusqu’au bout du trajet c’est à dire le poste frontière. En effet, le bus s’est entièrement vidé au village précèdent et nous ne sommes plus que 3 passagers.  Or comme nous sommes 3, le chauffeur accepte… “Vous seriez deux, je ne vous aurai pas emmener” nous dit-il!!  Et pendant ce temps-là il pleut toujours des trombes… la frontière est quand à 5km… A pied, avec nos sacs et sous l’eau cela aurait été plutôt moyen.

Le bus nous depose finalement à 500m du poste d’immigration dans la ville de Gasaule. 500m c’est mieux que 5km, mais c’est quand même une sacrée distance à parcourir sous la pluie chargé comme des mules.. On pourrait presque, je suis sur, nous comparer avec nos pauvres mules du trek Huayhuash au Pérou.. Nous trouvons une sorte de tricycle dans lequel nous chargeons nos sacs et nous mêmes. (Mais je pense que le tricycle nous a trouvé avant).

Son conducteur nous emmène jusqu’au poste d’immigration du Nicaragua où nos passeports, neufs au départ, se font tamponner la 18/19eme page… Une fois les formalités remplies, notre cycliste nous fait traverser un pont pour arriver au Honduras…. Attention!!! Le pont, il n’est pas plat… Notre cycliste pousse à ce moment là pour grimper jusque sur le tablier de pont un peu plus de 174kg (les sacs et nous)… Il en profite pour doubler deux autres cyclistes dont les conducteurs ont un peu plus de mal….  Du coup on lui fait la remarque s’il connait le tour de France, et nous lui conseillons de se mettre en relation avec une des équipes du tour… Sait-on jamais, il peut avoir des chances… Surtout qu’il faut comprendre que son boulot c’est transporter en vélo entre les deux postes de frontières

Arrivés du côteé Hondurien, nous refaisons tamponner nos passeports (page 19/20 cette fois-ci) et cherchons un bus… pour aller de l’autre côté du pays à la frontière avec le Salvador… Du coup les locaux nous ont pris un peu pour des fous… Certes vous êtes des touristes mais il faut pas non plus tomber sur la tête.. En guise de bus, on nous pointe du doigt un mini-bus.. Mes connaissances en automobile me font penser à un  monospace Toyota ou Nissan des années 80…. Donc la voiture doit avoir plus de 30ans… Cela doit être la raison pour laquelle on a dut mal à distinguer l’avant de l’arrière… Y a pas de pare chocs, ils ont du tomber, de toute façon, ça sert à rien…. Bon, quand on dit monospace, on se dit de la place, je pensais même à la publicite du Chrysler Voyager dans les annees 90 avec la musique celle-là même avec la musique des beachs boys Good Vibrations. Le lien vers le site de l’INA ici.

Mais en fait, il n’y avait pas tant de place que ça… En effet, quand nous rentrons à l’intérieur, il y a déjà 3 personnes devant (dont le conducteur), 3 personnes sur une banquette imaginaire faisant dos à la route, 4 personnes sur la banquette du milieu et 3 personnes sur la banquette de derrière et enfin nous essayons de rentrer nos sacs dans le coffre large de 50cm… Donc avec nous en plus, nous arrivons à 16 personnes… Ah, la sensation d’espace…. Mais bon, tout devrait aller, le trajet jusqu’à Choluteca (la ville principale du coin) ne dure que 40 min…

Sauf,, sauf que le trajet durera au total 2h30… 2 heures et demi pendant lesquelles la voiture callera toutes les 10 minutes tout en évitant les nids de poules qui ressemblent finalement plus à des nids d’autruches tellement ils sont gros… On pourrait presque par endroits y faire disparaitre la voiture…

Dans le collectivo, nous passons quand meme un super moment.. Nous parlons avec les locaux, dont l’un d’eux travaille pour l’office du tourisme et offre même à Caroline un bracelet (je le garde à l’oeil quand même). Le chauffeur ne sera pas aussi sympa que les clients et ne voudra même pas nous laisser dans le centre ville.

Resultat, nous re-voilà dehors avec nos sacs sous une pluie fine à chercher le terminal de bus pour acheter nos billet de transport pour le lendemain matin. Dans une des rues, alors que nous marchions, un 4×4 s’arrete a notre niveau et les vitres teintées noires se baissent.. Nous voyons 6 tetes nous regarder avec étonnement.. Une famille de 6 dont le père qui nous demande ce que nous faisons a cette heure-ci dans ce quartier de Choluteca…On cherche: 1, le terminal de bus , 2, un logement pour passer la nuit… Vous êtes fous… est la seule réponse qu’ils nous disent en anglais. Venez passer la nuit dans notre maison..

Ce que nous acceptons.. Les parents nous offrent leur chambre que nous essayons de refuser (sans succès). Puis tout le monde décide de repartir nous faire visiter Choluteca de nuit. Ils en profitent même pour nous acheter à manger sans que l’on s’en rende compte.

With Oscar family in Choluteca
With Oscar family in Choluteca
Choluteca main church, by night
Choluteca main church, by night
Nice doorway
Nice doorway
Choluteca
Choluteca, the same church
Another church in Choluteca
Another church in Choluteca
our night group again in Choluteca street
our night group again in Choluteca street

Le lendemain matin, nous repartons de bonheur direction le Salvador. Apres 2h40 de bus nous atteignons la frontière salvadorienne que nous traversons rapidement, même si nous faisons un petit stop au bureau de change…

The Salvador border
From Limpieros to US Dollar
From Limpieros to US Dollar
Changing money at Salvador border. Caroline is tough with the guy...
Changing money at Salvador border. Caroline is tough with the guy…

Mais le bus pour San Salvador ne partira pas avant 11h35. Nous avons le temps du coup de faire une petite pause culinaire…

On the Salvado side, it is tortillas time… with cheese
On the Salvado side, it is tortillas time… with cheese
The smiling Tortillas makers
The smiling Tortillas makers
How to make a good tortilla?
How to make a good tortilla?
Ready to sell Tortillas.
Ready to sell Tortillas.

Le bus nous fait arriver à San Salvador a 15h30. Nous devons changer de terminal par deux  fois pour trouver un bus direct qui part aux alentour de 16h pour Guatemala City. Nous attrapons de justesse le dernier…

A 21h, nous voilà à Guatemala City sous la pluie (encore) mais notre périple ne s’arrête pas là. Nous arrivons dans la zone 13, loin des zones 1 et 2 beaucoup plus populaires et donc « dangereuses » de nuit pour nous, touristes..  Sur place, nous demandons de l’aide a deux locales et trouvons finalement un taxi qui accepte de nous emmener jusqu’à Antigua pour 200 Qetzal, ce qui est plutôt intéressant comme prix. Il nous recommande aussi quelques hôtels pas chers. D’ailleurs si vous cherchez un taxi, pas trop cher et plein de bons conseils qui connaît la région comme sa poche, je vous recommande de prendre contact avec lui… C’est  Leonel Recinos que vous pouvez contacter par Facebook histoire de pouvoir organiser votre trip à l’avance… Et dans ce cas-là FB est plus pratique que le téléphone… 

Nous voilà donc arriver à destination après plus de 40 heures de voyage pour parcourir 900km…

Je vous dis à bientôt pour la suite de nos aventures depuis Antigua au Guatemala.

Et si vous avez tenu à lire l’article jusqu’au bout voila une petite vidéo du périple…

A très bientôt,

Jacques&caro

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48 hours… From Nicaragua to Guatemala

October 27, 2013 · by Jacques.L

At the time I am writting, we are in the fast train on the way to Paris from Perpignan, my hometown… We are flying back tomorrow to Australia… That means that our trip is over and the 11 months have gone pretty quickly.  Our TGV (french fast train) is having some performance issues tonight as we arrive one and half hour late in Paris. I guess we are quite used of this after 11 months around the world. It has been a open minded process and you get out of this quite different, So just one and half hour late is nothing… Let’s go back to our travel story…

Today, we are in Granada on the shore of Nicaragua Lake in Nicaragua. This post will get you across 3 different countries for us to reach Guatemala….

It is Friday 12th of July, and after more than two weeks spent in Nicaragua, it is time to go. We start our third but not last stop in Central America, Guatemala. After some discussions, we decide to skip Honduras and Salvador. This means that we will only cross these two countries. And we will arrive directly in Guatemala City. From there, we have two choices: an expensive bus ticket that brings us in Guatamala city in one day or the cheaper option to use local transport…

I am sure you guess which one we took…

Our journey is quite simple… on the map below

On paper, nothing more simple…

And in reality?

We leave Granada around 11am, a bit late, but one hour later we are in Managua… And leave straight away after we find a mini-van going to Leon. Our Lunch break takes place in the hyper busy bus terminal and a few minutes later we embark into a new mini-van (pretty loaded) to reach the little town of Chinadega. The travel takes 50min and we reach directly the bus terminal where our next bus is just there, ready to go.. So lucky. We run inside the bus (over packed) as outside it starts to rain. At the second to last stop, the bus empties itself.. Everyone goes out (it is still raining) and we are just 6 left in the bus, being the driver and two helpers, Caroline and I and another local woman. In order to get the bus to go to the last stop (at the border) we had to bargain, as they didn’t want to go there. I just can’t imagine ourselves walking outside during 5km with our bags under the rain…

The bus finally drops us at 500m of the border office. Still far enough to have to take a tricycle to ride us until the office. It is still pouring down and despite the roof (or the plastic cover) above our head, we get wet.. Ok, stop complaining, this is part of the trip!!!

The tricycle rider brings us to the Nicaragua immigration office where our passport gets stamped on it 18th or 19th page. Then, he rides us across the bridge between the two countries.. Arrived on the other side, we go to the Honduras border office to get the stamp again.

In Honduras, we look for a bus but apparently (I say apparently because you never can trust what the local says to you) . “It is too late”, they said us. “But you are lucky, because this collective (mini-van) is going until to Choluteca and there is plenty of room left inside” Ok, we replied. We discuss the price which was correct and load our bags inside.. There is two seats left inside… Ah, i was not sure, I couldn’t see them.. One here and one there… Are you sure these are actually seats?  Caroline fits in the middle row, while I sit down at the back between two other guys… In an”normal” world, you would just sit here with another person.. We are inside a van from the 80’s which is design to accommodate up to 7 people.. Funny to say we were 16 inside the car…

Ok, this is only for 45min.. We have been in worst situations… But the car is not running properly.. Every 500m the car stalls..  And when the driver tries to restart the engine, it takes 5 more minutes. I let you guess that the drive didn’t last 45 min but 2 hours and half… 16 persons inside…

Once arrived in Choluteca, the driver asks us for more money to go into the centre. “My car is having trouble, it consumes more petrol and it has some problems, so I won’t go further without you paying more..” he says us.. “ouah.. That’s a special way of seeing things… Unfortunately for him, we left..

As a result, here we go, at night time, under the rain walking along the outskirts of a city we don’t know in a country we have been in for only 3 hours… Luckily, we meet a nice family of 6 Honduran who were driving in their black four wheel drive. They ask us what the hell we were doing outside in this area at this time of the day? Crazy people!!! Anyway, they propose to host us for the night which we accept! This particular night, it was soccer night as Honduras was playing against Panama and the father and son (keen soccer fans as they belonged to the national team in the past) were going to watch the game. But they still propose to drive us around Choluteca by night so they can show us their hometown.. So nice…  They even take the opportunity to buy us some food… Even nicer (maybe we inspire pity? did we look so skinny, lol)

With Oscar family in Choluteca
With Oscar family in Choluteca
Choluteca main church, by night
Choluteca main church, by night
Nice doorway
Nice doorway
Choluteca
Choluteca, the same church
Another church in Choluteca
Another church in Choluteca
our night group again in Choluteca street
our night group again in Choluteca street

The next morning (saturday 13th of july), we leave early to take a bus until the border with Salvador… After 2 hours and 40min, we reach the border, get stamped, change some money back to US dollars and cross the border.

The Salvador border
From Limpieros to US Dollar
From Limpieros to US Dollar
Changing money at Salvador border. Caroline is tough with the guy...
Changing money at Salvador border. Caroline is tough with the guy…

We got there early, but the bus to San Salvador doesn’t leave before 11.35am… We have some time to check on the special food they made and sell here.. As you see below, corn flour tortillas…

On the Salvado side, it is tortillas time… with cheese
On the Salvado side, it is tortillas time… with cheese
The smiling Tortillas makers
The smiling Tortillas makers
How to make a good tortilla?
How to make a good tortilla?
Ready to sell Tortillas.
Ready to sell Tortillas.

Once on the way to San Salvador, we got stopped by the army to inspect the bus and our luggage.. And there, they find a large cardboard box filled up with knives, cigarettes and other products that someone tried to smuggle between Honduras to Salvador… There, they asked us to split… On the left, women, on the right men and start to body search almost everyone.. Probably looking after a gang, as everyone who had special tattoo on the shoulder and the back  got put apart… After the search, they couldn’t find the box owner, and decided that no one would leave until we found out… cool! we are going to spend the night here, and we will miss anyway our bus to Guatemala… But after 15 min, people starting to complain, they let us going.. We finally arrive at 3.30pm at San Salvador. The last bus to Guatemala City (we are saturday) is scheduled at 4pm and we need to cross the whole city to reach it. Almost missed it…

At 9pm we arrived in Guatemala City under the rain.. We are in Area 13, far away from area 1 and 2, more popular and dangerous and from where we can find a bus to go to Antigua. We ask for help to find an hotel but finally we find a taxi ready to drive us until Antigua for only 200 Qetzal, which is a good price. The driver, ‘Leonel” took even the time to find an hotel in Antigua. So if you are looking for a good taxi driver in the area of Guatemala City and Antigua, we highly recommend him. His name is Leonel Recinos and you can contact him on Facebook, before you arrive in Guatemala City.

We finally arrived after more the 40 hours of travel for 900km…

Blog you soon from Sydney about the next stories of our trip.

And because you have read the post until the end, here a short video of our ride from Nicaragua to Guatemala.

Jacques&caro

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Isla Ometepe, le Nicaragua en 2D

September 19, 2013 · by Jacques.L

L’ile Ometepe est un de ces 4 lieux à ne pas manquer au Nicaragua… C’est pourquoi nous nous devions d’y aller. Le retour que nous avons d’autres voyageurs est plus que positif. Nous pensons donc y passer 3 jours le temps de gravir le volcan Maderas, profiter del Zopilote qui est une finca ecologique.

L’ile d’Ometepe est presque en fait deux iles. En effet, deux stratovolcans La Concepcion et Maderas la constituent et les nombreuses coulées de laves ont fini par former une ile. Son nom vient d’ailleurs du fait qu’il y ait deux montagnes sur l’ile: “Ome” signifie deux tandis que “tepe” signifie montagne.

The Concepcion volcano from the boat

The Concepcion volcano from the boat

Depuis  Granada, nous prenons un bus jusqu’à Rivas, puis un taxi jusqu’au bord du lac à San Jorge où nous embarquons dans un ferry direction Ometepe.

La Estrella del Sur, our boat to reach Nicaragua Island
La Estrella del Sur, our boat to reach Nicaragua Island
Our boat detail
Our boat detail

Après une demi-heure de traversée, nous arrivons à Moyogalpa… Sur place, les taxis nous disent qu’il n’y a plus de bus… et donc que la seule solution pour rejoindre Zopilote (qui se trouve à côté de Santa Cruz) est de prendre un taxi. Sauf que nous décidons de sortir du terminal et tombons sur un bus…

Once arrived in the island, we have an hour and half of bus until our hostel

Once arrived in the island, we have an hour and half of bus until our hostel

Bon, ok il nous aura fallu deux heures de bus pour rejoindre la Finca alors que le taxi aurait pris environ 3/4 heure. De plus le départ depuis Moyogalpa se fait dans un bus plus que plein à craquer… Une fois parti ou nous nous disons que nous n’allons pas prendre plus de monde, le bus s’arrête quand même quelques minutes plus tard avant la sortie du village pour charger quelques sacs de ciment et des tuyaux.

Enfin arrivés  à Zopilote mais il fait nuit et rejoindre l’entrée de la finca se fait après 10 min de marche dans la jungle qui entoure la finca.

Welcome to El Zopilote
Welcome to El Zopilote
Inside el Zopilote
Inside el Zopilote
Our home for two days in Zopilote finca
Our home for two days in Zopilote finca
View from Zopilote on the lake
View from Zopilote on the lake
The pizza oven at Zopilote

Le lendemain nous prévoyions de monter le volcan Maderas, mais il ne fait pas beau, et on n’apercoit même pas le sommet. De plus je ne suis pas en grande forme. Il pleut même. Caro en profite pour faire une sortie en cheval tandis que j’avance le blog…

Caroline, happy, on her horse
Caroline, happy, on her horse
Horse riding experience on the shore of Nicaragua lake
Horse riding experience on the shore of Nicaragua lake
Horse, island, lake...
Horse, island, lake…

Nous passons une seconde nuit mais le temps ne s’arrangeant pas, nous decidons de partir le lendemain matin. La bonne nouvelle est que la nouvelle CB est finalement arrivée à la poste de San Jose. Du coup, Caro part directement sur San Jose où elle passera une nuit chez Adriana et Andres. De mon côté, je repars sur Granada à notre backpacker préféré où nous avions déjà passé quelques nuits avant l’ile d’Ometepe.

The biggest volcano of the Island: La concepcion

The biggest volcano of the Island: La concepcion

La nouvelle est tombée il y a deux mois, le Nicaragua a donné l’autorisation à une société d’Hong Kong de construire et d’exploiter un canal interocéanique entre l’océan Atlantique et Pacifique qui passera notamment par le lac Nicaragua non loin de l’ile Ometepe.

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Isla Ometepe, Nicaragua in 2D

September 19, 2013 · by Jacques.L

Ometepe island is one of the 4 places you must go when you visit Nicaragua. That’s why we had to go, plus the fact that the feedback we had was only positive. We were planning to spend 3 days on the island, which is enough time to climb up Maderas volcano and take advantage of the eco/green finca El Zopilote…

In fact Ometepe island is almost two islands. Indeed, it is made of two stratovolcanos : La Concepcion and Maderas. Both of them have created an island with their lava flows wich end up forming one island. Its name comes from the fact there is two mountains on the island: “Ome” means two while “tepe” means mountain.

The Concepcion volcano from the boat

The Concepcion volcano from the boat

From Granada, we took a bus to Rivas, then a taxi from the bus terminal up to San Jorge where we took the ferry toward Ometepe.

La Estrella del Sur, our boat to reach Nicaragua Island
La Estrella del Sur, our boat to reach Nicaragua Island
Our boat detail
Our boat detail

After an half & hour crossing the lake, we arrived at Moyogalpa. There, we asked for a bus but all the taxi drivers who rushed to the boat exit told us there were no buses… Hum, so how the local move from one point to another point of the island? They don’t know, they said.. so you need to take a taxi..
But once you walk a few steps away of the ferry terminal (if we can name this a ferry terminal) we find a bus just waiting for us… (just on time)

Once arrived in the island, we have an hour and half of bus until our hostel

Once arrived in the island, we have an hour and half of bus until our hostel

Ok, it is true that it took us two hours to reach the finca El Zopilote while it would have taken around 45 min with a taxi… But it was fun to embark in a bus which was full, up to the roof… But not so full for the driver (we were already standing up in the bus with our big bags at the back) because he decided to stop another time to take more people while some concrete bags and large pipes were loaded at the same time.. How will they fit everything.

By the time we get to the entrance of Zopilote, it was pitch dark. And we reach the reception after a 10 min walk in the jungle.

Welcome to El Zopilote
Welcome to El Zopilote
Inside el Zopilote
Inside el Zopilote
Our home for two days in Zopilote finca
Our home for two days in Zopilote finca
View from Zopilote on the lake
View from Zopilote on the lake
The pizza oven at Zopilote

The second day we were planning to climb Maderas volcano. Only issue for us on that day was the fact that the weather wa cloudy.. We couldn’t see the summit.. So how could we expect to see something from the top…
On top of that, I am a bit sick and it starts to rain.. Yeah, perfect weather to do nothing..  But Caroline will take the opportunity to do some horse ridding on the beach while I try to write some interesting stuff on the blog…

Caroline, happy, on her horse
Caroline, happy, on her horse
Horse riding experience on the shore of Nicaragua lake
Horse riding experience on the shore of Nicaragua lake
Horse, island, lake...
Horse, island, lake…

We spend a second night but the weather is not getting better… We decide to leave the island… The good news is that our new Credit Card is finally arrived in San Jose in Costa Rica.. Finally!! Caroline leaves the same day to San Jose where she will spend a night at Adriana and Andres place while I get back to Granada and stay at our favorite backpacker (the same before we left to go to Ometepe Island)

The biggest volcano of the Island: La concepcion

The biggest volcano of the Island: La concepcion

Last news.. The Nicaragua has approved the construction and exploitation by a foreign company to build a new interoceanic canal between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. This canal will go through Nicaragua Lake and therefore not far from Ometepe Island. So the best moment to go to Ometepe Island is NOW….

Blog you soon,

Jacques&Caro

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A must see in Nicaragua: Granada

September 17, 2013 · by Jacques.L

We are now back from Corn Island and we just arrive in Granada located on the shore of Lake Nicaragua.

View onto Granada from La Merced church

View onto Granada from La Merced church

Just facing her are La Concepcion and La Madera volcanos that form Ometepe Island where we plan to go in a few days.

View onto Granada from La Merced church

View onto Granada from La Merced church with Mombancho volcano on the background

We still have no news of our credit card, it means so it is still not arrived in San Jose… Maybe we will have to continue our journey without it and use our australian credit card which means a lot of fees as we pay and withdraw money overseas.

Bell of La Merced church

Bell of La Merced church with the yellow Xalteva church in the background

In Granada, we stay at an excellent backpacker called “Backyard Backpacker”. We recommend it to anyone who wants a place to rest, meet people, or relax in the pool or at the bar. The owners are Canadian and are very cool.

Inside Backyard backpacker
Inside Backyard backpacker
Inside Backyard backpacker, the bar and behind the pool
Inside Backyard backpacker, the bar and behind the pool

Granada is the colonial city by default in Nicaragua. The style is not pure Castilan but a mix of Moorish and Andalusian influence as opposed to her rival sister Leon. Obvioulsy one thing you cannot miss is to spend a good day walking within the historical center… The weather is warm during the whole year, so take your time. For lunch you can either go to the gringo restaurants on Calzada street or walk a few steps north where you will find more authentic restaurants. As any colonial city, there is not one church but many… Granada Cathedral, San Francisco Church, Xalteva church, etc…

Xalteva church facing Xalteva park which has been rehabilitated
Xalteva church facing Xalteva park which has been rehabilitated
Storm approaching Granada
Storm approaching Granada
San Francisco Monastery
San Francisco Monastery
Caroline with San Francisco monastery in the background
Caroline with San Francisco monastery in the background
Guadalupe Church facing Lake Nicaragua
Guadalupe Church facing Lake Nicaragua
The garden of the museum of San Francisco Museum
The garden of the museum of San Francisco Museum
The garden of the museum of San Francisco Museum
The garden of the museum of San Francisco Museum
View from the top of La Merced church
View from the top of La Merced church
The old hospital now falling apart
The old hospital now falling apart
La casa Almacen
La casa Almacen
San Juan Bosco church
San Juan Bosco church
Granada main square: La independencia square with Granda Cathedral in the background
Granada main square: La independencia square with Granda Cathedral in the background

When you walk in Granada, you will notice the colorful house facade. A patchwork that you can’t miss.. As you walk away from the touristic center, you will see how people live there… They setup their rocking-chair on the pavement, and as soon as the night falls, put a table & a BBQ and start cooking meat and fried & sliced bananas they will sell for dinner.

Obviously, we went to try it and it was quite good. For three time less the price of a restaurant, you have some good local food.

Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Freedom street
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Rocking-chairs setup in the streets of Granada
Granada house
Granada house
Granada old building
Granada old building
Local chemist
Local chemist
Granada colourful street
Granada colourful street
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses

We taste the local beer, La Tona and visit as usually the local market where we have lunch.

Local beer : La Tona
Local beer : La Tona
On the way to the market close to Granada centre
On the way to the market close to Granada centre
Massive papaya in Granada market with Caroline
Massive papaya in Granada market with Caroline
Caro and Jacques enjoying a hot chocolate & beer break
Caro and Jacques enjoying a hot chocolate & beer break

From Granada, our next stop is Ometepe Island located on the middle of Lake Nicaragua, but this will be another post on Jacquesandcaro.me.

Blog you soon,

Jacques&Caro

11.927990 -85.959862

Une étape immanquable du Nicaragua: Granada

September 17, 2013 · by Jacques.L

Nous voila de retour après notre periple au Corn Island et nous debarquons à Granada qui se trouve sur le bord du Lac Nicaragua.

View onto Granada from La Merced church

View onto Granada from La Merced church

En face d’elle se trouvent plusieurs volcans dont La Concepcion et La Madera qui se situent sur le Lac Nicaragua et forment l’ile Ometepe. Nous prevoyons d’y aller dans quelques jours.

View onto Granada from La Merced church

View onto Granada from La Merced church with Mombancho volcano on the background

Nous n’avons toujours pas de nouvelles à ce stade de notre carte bleue qui n’est donc toujours pas arrivée à la poste de San Jose au Costa Rica.. Peut-être faudra-t-il se passer d’elle?

Bell of La Merced church

Bell of La Merced church with the yellow Xalteva church in the background

Nous restons sur Granada dans un petit backpacker bien sympa, le “Backyard Backpacker” que nous recommandons à quiconque recherche une adresse sympa sur Granada. Tenu par deux Canadiens, il possède un bar avec piscine et tout le staff est bien sympa.

Inside Backyard backpacker
Inside Backyard backpacker
Inside Backyard backpacker, the bar and behind the pool
Inside Backyard backpacker, the bar and behind the pool

Sur Granada, ville coloniale par excellence mais de style andalou mauresque (contrairement à sa soeur rivale Leon qui est plutôt d’un style castillan), la visite du centre historique est immanquable. On ne la surnomme pas la Grande Sultane pour rien…Ses nombreuses églises, monuments, couvents tous très conservés… Voici quelques photos ci-dessous.

Xalteva church facing Xalteva park which has been rehabilitated
Xalteva church facing Xalteva park which has been rehabilitated
Storm approaching Granada
Storm approaching Granada
San Francisco Monastery
San Francisco Monastery
Caroline with San Francisco monastery in the background
Caroline with San Francisco monastery in the background
Guadalupe Church facing Lake Nicaragua
Guadalupe Church facing Lake Nicaragua
The garden of the museum of San Francisco Museum
The garden of the museum of San Francisco Museum
The garden of the museum of San Francisco Museum
The garden of the museum of San Francisco Museum
View from the top of La Merced church
View from the top of La Merced church
The old hospital now falling apart
The old hospital now falling apart
La casa Almacen
La casa Almacen
San Juan Bosco church
San Juan Bosco church
Granada main square: La independencia square with Granda Cathedral in the background
Granada main square: La independencia square with Granda Cathedral in the background

Granada, c’est aussi un patchwork de toutes ses maisons de couleurs différentes. Quand on sort des sentiers battus par les touristes, nous avons toujours de jolies surprises…

Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Freedom street
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Streets of Granada
Rocking-chairs setup in the streets of Granada
Granada house
Granada house
Granada old building
Granada old building
Local chemist
Local chemist
Granada colourful street
Granada colourful street
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses
Granada colourful houses

Nous goutons la bière locale, visitons le marché local qui en dit long sur les habitudes de la ville.

Local beer : La Tona
Local beer : La Tona
On the way to the market close to Granada centre
On the way to the market close to Granada centre
Massive papaya in Granada market with Caroline
Massive papaya in Granada market with Caroline
Caro and Jacques enjoying a hot chocolate & beer break
Caro and Jacques enjoying a hot chocolate & beer break

De là, nous nous dirigeons vers l’ile Ometepe en plein milieu du Lac Nicaragua, ce qui fera l’occasion d’un prochain article du blog.

A très bientôt,

Jacques&Caro

11.927990 -85.959862

Little Corn Island, l’insolente petite soeur

September 13, 2013 · by Jacques.L

Avant de commencer ce post, je voudrais apporter quelques précisions…

  1. Notre tour du monde est presque fini étant donne que nous sommes actuellement en France… (voir la carte en bas de page)
  2. Mais le blog n’est pas fini…
  3. Il nous reste encore 1 mois et demi de voyage à raconter, donc à peu près une soixantaine d’articles à écrire (en anglais et en Français), et quelques 3500 photos à trier avant de les mettre en ligne sur le blog…

Nous sommes donc en 2013 après Jésus-Christ. Tout le Nicaragua est occupé par les Nicaraguayens.. Tout? Non! Une petite ile d’irréductibles parlant anglais et créole résiste toujours à la langue espagnole… Et la vie ne lui est pas facile face à cette population qui descend d’anciens pirates… Nous voila donc sur Little Corn Island, la petite soeur presque insolente de Big Corn.

Nous y accédons par lancha que nous prenons depuis le port principal de Big Corn. 25 minutes plus tard sous un soleil de plomb (et quelques coups de soleil) nous y arrivons. Notre traversée a été relativement calme, mais les conditions sont plutôt optimales. Il faut savoir que la traversée durant les mois les plus ventés (autour de novembre) sont beaucoup plus agitées (l’océan entre les deux iles pouvant être démonté). Et oui, accéder à Little Corn durant les périodes touristiques se mérite..

In the boat ready to go to Little Corn
In the boat ready to go to Little Corn
The "lancha" between Big and Little Corn
The “lancha” between Big and Little Corn

Sur place nous logeons aux 3 frères (The 3 brothers) que nous apprecions beaucoup etant donné qu’il est le seul hostel avec une cuisine… Et oui, un tour autour du monde c’est un budget à gerer et nous découvrons que la petite soeur est bien chère à entretenir..

Randy, the owner of 3 brothers

Randy, the owner of 3 brothers

En effet, Little Corn est encore plus paradisiaque que sa grande soeur et donc plus développée d’un point de vue touristique (cela reste tout de même relatif si on la compare avec d’autres iles des Caraibes). Cela n’empêche, les prix y sont donc quand même beaucoup plus élevés qu’à Big Corn et si vous y restez une semaine et mangez au resto tous les matins-midi-soirs revient vite bien cher.

Pourquoi les Corn Island?

Les iles du Mais sont une alternative sérieuse à ses concurrentes Hondurienne (Roatan et Utila). Beaucoup moins développées, beaucoup plus vraies (pour le moment) et beaucoup moins chères, elles accumulent les points positifs.

Que faire sur Little Corn Island?

Contrairement à sa grande soeur, nous n’avons pas eu besoin de louer des vélos. Nos jambes nous ont suffi pour parcourir les quelques 3 kilomètres carrés constitués principalement de plages, avocatiers, manguiers et palmiers où l’on peut se perdre facilement…

The road of Little Corn Island
The road of Little Corn Island
The road of Little Corn Island
The road of Little Corn Island
More than 300 types of mangos, Caroline is so happy
More than 300 types of mangos, Caroline is so happy
The base-ball field
The base-ball field

Le farniente est une religion à laquelle il faut se soumettre. Entre midi et deux les rares commerces sont fermés et la chaleur vous pousse à une petite sieste sous l’ombre d’un palmier sur la plage. C’est dans ces moments-ci où l’on se rend compte de la difficulté de la condition humaine sous les tropiques.

Sunset on Little Corn

Sunset on Little Corn

Nous visitons donc les différentes plages qu’a à offrir Little Corn Island. Voici-ci dessous une petite galerie des plages paradisiaques de Little Corn.

Storm coming
Storm coming
Caroline
Caroline
The south west cost of Little Corn
The south west cost of Little Corn
Little Corn Island, the north east beach
Little Corn Island, the north east beach
The harbour on the east coast
The harbour on the east coast
West side of Little Corn
West side of Little Corn
Another sunset in Little Corn
Another sunset in Little Corn
The east part of Little Corn...
The east part of Little Corn…
Us from the most beautiful beach of Little Corn
Us from the most beautiful beach of Little Corn
Paradisiac beach
Paradisiac beach

Nous partons deux fois en sortie snorkeling (Palme-masque-tuba) autour de l’ile où nous sommes partis à la rencontre de la faune et flore marine: tortues, requins, raies, mais aussi une épave…

Little shark
Little shark
Both of us on the wreck
Both of us on the wreck
Caroline on the boat wreck
Caroline on the boat wreck
Ready to snorkel
Ready to snorkel
Under water Litte Corn
Under water Litte Corn
THe boat is still there...
THe boat is still there…
Little corn from the snorkelling spot
Little corn from the snorkelling spot
In the water..
In the water..
Randy, the owner of 3 brothers
Randy, the owner of 3 brothers
Randy and David from the 3 brothers
Randy and David from the 3 brothers
Little fish around the coral

Nous avons aussi dégusté quelques plats locaux tels que le porridge fait de Bread Fruit, le run-down (que nous avons déjà mangé à San Juan del Sur) ainsi que des écrevisses fraichement péchées (c’est l’industrie principale des iles Corn Island)

Eating a bread fruit porridge kindly cooked by a local!!! yummy...
Eating a bread fruit porridge kindly cooked by a local!!! yummy…
Caroline, the cat and her porridge
Caroline, the cat and her porridge
Grilled lobsters, what's else?
Grilled lobsters, what’s else?
Our last night in Little Corn with a lot of good friends

Que de plus?

Vraiment pas plus, il ne vous reste plus qu’à les découvrir par vous même…

A tres bientôt,

Jacques&Caro

12.166153 -83.040797

Little Corn Island, the cheeky little sister…

September 12, 2013 · by Jacques.L

Before starting this post, I would like to add a few details about our current situation…

  1. Our trip around the world is almost finished as we are currently in France and will be back to Sydney in a bit more than 16 days…
  2. But this blog is not yet over
  3. We still have one month and half of travel stories to tell you so around 60 posts to write (in both french and english) and around 3,500 pictures to sort out for the blog.

We are friday 28th of June and on our way to Little Corn Island… Big Corn little sister…

We get there by boat (the local lanchas) that we take from  Big Corn harbour… 25 minutes later under a strong sun we arrive in Little Corn.. Some locals are there along with a sign “Welcome to heaven on earth).. Quite nice…. Crossing the sea between the two islands was quite smooth but we have been told is usually rougher especially during the month of November to January when the wind blows.

In the boat ready to go to Little Corn
In the boat ready to go to Little Corn
The "lancha" between Big and Little Corn
The “lancha” between Big and Little Corn

Overthere, we stay at the Three Brother that we like a lot. Nice room and terrace plus the fact there is a kitchen to cook… When you travel for a few months, it is always nice to be able to cook your own food… You don’t have to rely on restaurant which usually blow your budget away. And the little sister is quite popular among the tourist and therefore more expensive…

Randy, the owner of 3 brothers

Randy, the owner of 3 brothers

Little Corn is more popular than her sister and maybe more idyllic than Big Corn. As a result you can find more resort, hotel and restaurant which push the price up… But it is still far cheaper than some island in the Caribbean

Why Corn Island?

These islands are a good alternative of two Honduran island (Roatan and Utilan)… Less developed (estate wise), more original, you will enjoy as well less people…

What to do on Little Corn Island

Unlikely to it other sister, we didn’t need to rent a bike. Our legs were enough to walk across the 3 square kilometers of the island filled up with beaches, avocado trees, mango trees and palm trees.

The road of Little Corn Island
The road of Little Corn Island
The road of Little Corn Island
The road of Little Corn Island
More than 300 types of mangos, Caroline is so happy
More than 300 types of mangos, Caroline is so happy
The base-ball field
The base-ball field

Doing almost nothing is our motus for the next week or so… Wake up early morning by the heat, you crawl then to the beach until mid-day until the heat become unbearable. At this time, the nap is a must do… Then the rain hits the island form 12pm to 3pm… We are going back to the beach until the night falls down.

Sunset on Little Corn

Sunset on Little Corn

We visited the various beaches that Little Corn has to offer… Below is a little gallery:

Storm coming
Storm coming
Caroline
Caroline
The south west cost of Little Corn
The south west cost of Little Corn
Little Corn Island, the north east beach
Little Corn Island, the north east beach
The harbour on the east coast
The harbour on the east coast
West side of Little Corn
West side of Little Corn
Another sunset in Little Corn
Another sunset in Little Corn
The east part of Little Corn...
The east part of Little Corn…
Us from the most beautiful beach of Little Corn
Us from the most beautiful beach of Little Corn
Paradisiac beach
Paradisiac beach

We went twice snorkeling around the island where we met tortules, sharks and ray.

Little shark
Little shark
Both of us on the wreck
Both of us on the wreck
Caroline on the boat wreck
Caroline on the boat wreck
Ready to snorkel
Ready to snorkel
Under water Litte Corn
Under water Litte Corn
THe boat is still there...
THe boat is still there…
Little corn from the snorkelling spot
Little corn from the snorkelling spot
In the water..
In the water..
Randy, the owner of 3 brothers
Randy, the owner of 3 brothers
Randy and David from the 3 brothers
Randy and David from the 3 brothers
Little fish around the coral

We tasted some local dishes such as the fruit bread porridge, the run-down and some fresh lobsters.

Eating a bread fruit porridge kindly cooked by a local!!! yummy...
Eating a bread fruit porridge kindly cooked by a local!!! yummy…
Caroline, the cat and her porridge
Caroline, the cat and her porridge
Grilled lobsters, what's else?
Grilled lobsters, what’s else?
Our last night in Little Corn with a lot of good friends

What’s else?

Nothing really, but now it is time to discover it by yourself…

Blog you soon,

Jacques&Caro

12.166153 -83.040797

L’ile de Big Corn, un petit oasis de bien-être

September 5, 2013 · by Jacques.L

Après notre épopée digne d’Ulysse, nous nous posons enfin sur Big Corn Island.

Cette fois-ci pas de carte google mais la carte locale prise sur le mur d’une maison au bord de la plage Coco.

Welcome to Big Corn Island

Welcome to Big Corn Island

Nous passons nos nuits juste en face de la plage Coco dans un petit hostel surnommé La Casa Blanca.. La mer est à 1m de notre chambre, que demander de plus?

View from of our hostal...
View from of our hostal…
View from our hostal...
View from our hostal…
La playa Coco facing our hostel
La playa Coco facing our hostel
Jacques off Playa Coco, a few meters from our hostel...
Jacques off Playa Coco, a few meters from our hostel…
Playa Coco
Playa Coco
Fishermen boat overlooking Playa Coco, west side of Big Corn Island
Fishermen boat overlooking Playa Coco, west side of Big Corn Island

L’eau est chaude et claire… Nous louons le lendemain de notre arrivée des vélos pour faire le tour de l’ile…

Tout d’abord la South West Bay qui est (pour nous) la plus belle plage de l’ile. Jugement pas très objectif étant donné que le ciel s’est couvert pas la suite et ne nous a pas permis d’apprécier à leur juste valeur les autres parties de l’ile.

South West Bay beach is the most beautiful beach of Big Corn Island
South West Bay beach is the most beautiful beach of Big Corn Island
Caroline with the beautiful background of South West Bay Beach, south east of Big Corn Island
Caroline with the beautiful background of South West Bay Beach, south east of Big Corn Island
Jacques keeping the bikes while Caro goes snorkelling at South West Bay Beach
Jacques keeping the bikes while Caro goes snorkelling at South West Bay Beach

Après la pause nous repartons vers l’intérieur de l’île (juste en dessous de la piste d’aéroport) où nous nous arrêtons pour un déjeuner pas cher mais excellent… Poisson grillé, riz, tortilla, haricots cuisinés à la manière locale, onions et frites de bananes bien fines et craquantes…

Best fish for almost nothing.. and nicest people ever… what's else for lunch?

Best fish for almost nothing.. and nicest people ever… what’s else for lunch?

Une fois le déjeuner finis, nous partons digérer sur nos vélos en direction de la côte ouest de Big Corn. Nous arrivons donc sur la plage de Long Bay, mais le temps se gâte au point d’être surpris par la pluie.

C’est donc sous une paillote, ou à jouer à la pétanque avec les noix de coco sur la plage ou bien à essayer de les casser pour en boire le lait, que nous attendons que le temps se calme.

Caroline drinking a coconut on the north part of Long Bay beach

Caroline drinking a coconut on the north part of Long Bay beach

Nous repartons ensuite vers le nord de l’ile pour atteindre la plage de Sally Peach. Avant d’y arriver, on croise ce genre de signe.. attention ils vont vous attraper ou attention de ne pas rouler dessus? On dirait qu’ils ont déjà mangé une partie du panneau…

As you can see, be aware, dangerous crabs crossing the road...

As you can see, be aware, dangerous crabs crossing the road…

Sur la plage de Sally Peach, on peut goûter les fameux pain au coco.. Un délice!!

Caroline enjoying a coconut bread… so tasty. on the north part of the island
The coconut bread bakery
The coconut bread bakery
Church, coconut tree...
Church, coconut tree…
North east beaches of Big Corn: Sally Peaches...
North east beaches of Big Corn: Sally Peaches…
North part of Big Corn… I love the grass and coconut tree..
North part of Big Corn… I love the grass and coconut tree..
After the storm, the sun is back.. on the north side of Big Corn Island
After the storm, the sun is back.. on the north side of Big Corn Island

Notre tour de l’ile est terminé et nous nous dirigeons vers notre hostel. Demain nous partirons sur Little Corn.

Sunset in Big Corn Island

Sunset in Big Corn Island

A bientôt depuis Little Corn Island.

Jacques&Caro

12.166153 -83.040797

Big Corn, the cool island.

September 4, 2013 · by Jacques.L

After our epic journey to reach these islands, we finally settle down in Big Corn Island for a few days…This time no google map but a local map shoot on the wall of a house in Playa Coco.

Welcome to Big Corn Island

Welcome to Big Corn Island

We spend our nights in a little hostal, “La Casa Blanca” facing Coco beach. We are only 1m away from the blue azul and warm water. What’s else?

View from of our hostal...
View from of our hostal…
View from our hostal...
View from our hostal…
La playa Coco facing our hostel
La playa Coco facing our hostel
Jacques off Playa Coco, a few meters from our hostel...
Jacques off Playa Coco, a few meters from our hostel…
Playa Coco
Playa Coco
Fishermen boat overlooking Playa Coco, west side of Big Corn Island
Fishermen boat overlooking Playa Coco, west side of Big Corn Island

The next morning, we rent some bikes to explore the island.

Firstly the South West Bay which is, for us, the most beautiful beach of the island. Not to say that our judgement is subjective as the weather turned to overcast when we visit the other beaches.

South West Bay beach is the most beautiful beach of Big Corn Island
South West Bay beach is the most beautiful beach of Big Corn Island
Caroline with the beautiful background of South West Bay Beach, south east of Big Corn Island
Caroline with the beautiful background of South West Bay Beach, south east of Big Corn Island
Jacques keeping the bikes while Caro goes snorkelling at South West Bay Beach
Jacques keeping the bikes while Caro goes snorkelling at South West Bay Beach

After this first break, it is time for lunch break… We ride toward the inside of the island and stop at the end of the airport runaway where we find a local and small place… Best lunch ever at a competitive price. Indeed. We are served two massive plates made of grilled fish, rice, tortillas with beans & onions and finally some tasty fried sliced bananas.

Best fish for almost nothing.. and nicest people ever… what's else for lunch?

Best fish for almost nothing.. and nicest people ever… what’s else for lunch?

Once the lunch over, we leave on our bike to speed up the digestion. We ride toward the west part of the island but the weather starts to turn to grey and by the time we arrive there, it rains…

Staying under a straw hut and watching the rain, or playing “petanque” with coconuts or breaking them to drink coconut milk are our activities while the pouring rain wet everything and cool down the air temperature (but it is still warm)

Caroline drinking a coconut on the north part of Long Bay beach

Caroline drinking a coconut on the north part of Long Bay beach

Once the rain stops, we leave toward the north part of the island to reach Sally Peach beach.. Before reaching it we see this yellow sign.. What does that mean? Be careful not to drive onto them or be careful they can catch you…. (And it looks like they have already caught part of the sign)

As you can see, be aware, dangerous crabs crossing the road...

As you can see, be aware, dangerous crabs crossing the road…

On Sally Peach beach, it is coconut bread mode… We love it!!!

Caroline enjoying a coconut bread… so tasty. on the north part of the island
The coconut bread bakery
The coconut bread bakery
Church, coconut tree...
Church, coconut tree…
North east beaches of Big Corn: Sally Peaches...
North east beaches of Big Corn: Sally Peaches…
North part of Big Corn… I love the grass and coconut tree..
North part of Big Corn… I love the grass and coconut tree..
After the storm, the sun is back.. on the north side of Big Corn Island
After the storm, the sun is back.. on the north side of Big Corn Island

Our ride around the island is over and we now go back to “La Casa Blanca”.. Tomorrow, we will leave Big Corn to go to it little sister, Little Corn Island.

Sunset in Big Corn Island

Sunset in Big Corn Island

Blog you soon from Corn Island.

Jacques&Caro

12.166153 -83.040797
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